| Years
most influential |
Designer
and intertional fashion directions |
|
1774-93
|
Rose
Bertin: Dressmaker to Marie Antoinette
|
|
1790-1815
|
Hipolyte
Le Roy: dressmaker for the court of
Napoleon, creator of he classic revival
Empire style
|
|
1860s
|
Charles
Worth(b.England); Father of modern couture
|
|
Late
1800s
|
Redfern,
Cheruit, Doucet, Paquin
|
|
Early
1900s
|
|
|
1909-11
|
Paul
Poiret: colorful, exotic minaret or
lampshade tunic
|
|
1912-15
|
Charlotte
Premet
|
|
Post-World
War I
|
Madelaine
Vionnet: first to do bias cut
|
|
1916-21
|
Coco
Chanel: known for the Boyish look
and for using jersey
|
|
1922-29
|
Jean
Patou: Known for the Flapper Look
|
|
1930-35
|
Elsa
Schiaparelli(b. Italy): hard chic and
unconventional stling
|
|
1936-38
|
Mainbocher(b.
United States) and Molyneux(b. Ireland):
understaement and broadening shoulders
(All
ofthe above worked in France.)
Gilbert
Adrian: Hollywood glamour copied in
ready-to-wear
|
|
1940-45
|
Clair
McCardle(American in America): known
for American Look of practical sportswear.
The
war years made communication with Europe
impossible and made Americans begin
to appreciate their own designers.
|
|
1947-57
|
Christian
Dior: with his New Look, Paris fashion
leadership is regained.
|
|
1950s-60s
|
Andre
Courreges: stark futuristic
Italian
designers such as Pucci
becoming important
|
|
1960s
|
Mary
Quant: English designers have international
influence.
Beginning
of young designers creating for young
people
Mini
skirts and Mod Look
|
|
1968-1975
|
Much
confusion in fashion direction. Paris
influence is waning.
"Fahion
from the streets": young people
turn to old clothes and jeans.
Ethnic
influence
|
|
1970s
|
International
exchange of fashion
Major
influence from French pret-a-porter:
St. Laurent, Kenzo(b.
japan), Rykiel,
Lagerfeld(b.
Germany)
American
designers becoming internationally known,
such as Beene
Italian
designers important: Armani,
Missoni, Krizia(Mandeli),
Ferragamo
shoes, Gucci
handbags
|
|
1980s
|
Japanese
and Englsih international influence:
shape unrelated to body
Rise
of internationally known, popularly
priced sportswear manufacturers such
as Liz Claiborne, Esprit and Benetton
Armani
sets the fashion tone for professional
women.
Lagerfeld
and Lacroix
rejuvenate the couture.
Ralph
Lauren, Donna
Karan are big names in American
fashion. Global outlook.
|